Peplums started out life in the 1800′s as short overskirts that flounced out from the waist. The general definition holds true, though in the 20th century they became attached to the waists of jackets or skirts as structured frills that accented the hips. In 1947 Christian Dior debuted the ‘Bar’ suit, which formed an iconic part of the ‘New Look’, bringing a nipped-in waist and padded, peplumed hips into raging popularity.
The peplum now
Peplums have been playing on the edges of fashion for several seasons now, but on the spring 2012 runways rose up to have their moment. But while some designers adhered to the stiff femininity of the peplum as history has known it, others brought it well and truly forward, laying out contemporary options that see it crossing paths with other spring trends.
Peplums beyond the skirt
While we usually picture peplums as being either attached to skirts or attached to jackets worn with skirts, there’s no such requirement any more. Peplums now find themselves frilling out across the hips of skinny-cut pants, or being worn with tailored shorts as a modern day update that marries the peplum silhouette with a cool hint of androgny
Feminine with a twist
The other brilliant thing about the smorgasboard of peplum options available to you right now is that not everything is clear-cut and safe. If you want to rock peplums in a way that’s very now look to the runway designs that incorporated femininity with a twist.
Peplums for fall 2012
When the cold weather hits and spring gives way to fall / winter 2012, don’t feel you have to give up the idea of playing with peplums. Though, there are particular interpretations best suited to the cool seasons.
With the layering that goes into staying warm come chilly fall days, voluminous peplums can go from elegant to lumpy. As such:
For cold weather, peplum jackets are one of the best ways to interpret the trend. They can be worn over slim layers to create an interesting look, while on the contrary peplums worn as under-layers can be bulky.
While peplums in spring can be flirty and flouncy, winter works best with structure. Sharply structured peplums have a strict elegance when applied to winter outerwear.
Experiment with heavier fabrics. Wool, leather, or jacquard are good options for structured fall peplums.
How peplums can flatter your figure
The glad truth about peplums is that they can add volume where volume is most needed. If you’re thinking that hips are the one place volume is not needed, don’t write peplums off just yet.
Adding volume to the hips also creates more negative space at the waist. In other words, even for those heavier on the bottom, peplums can flatter by drawing in the waist and creating a deliberate hourglass shape. Choose wisely though; only opt for pieces that create that s-curve by really drawing in the waist. You’ll probably be better off opting for tops or jackets with peplums high at the waist as opposed to skirts with peplums that flare out from lower on the body.
As requested in former post( Sweet Bakery Hobby) ,I'm going to post recipe of this very popular macaroons. I hope you enjoy it!
Try this classic vanilla macaron recipe from renowned Melbourne Chef Arno Backes of Ganache.
Ingredients
Macaron
500g Almond Meal
500g Icing Sugar
170g egg white
15g food colour
450g sugar
150g water
170g egg white
Vanilla ganache
1200g Cream
150g butter
120g glucose
1 whole vanilla bean
1500g white couverture.
Method
Macaron
1Crack eggs, separating yolks and whites. Let whites age in fridge for 1 week. Sieve icing sugar and fine bleached almond meal twice, 3 days prior to making, let it sit in a cool place but not in the fridge.
2Boil water and sugar to 120°C, whisk half the egg white and pour the boiling sugar slowly into the egg, increase the mixing speed once all the sugar is added. While this is mixing, mix the rest of the egg whites with the almond meal. Once the sugar mix has cooled a little to body temp, mix in the almond meal mix. Mix by hand until almost not stable then add food colouring.
3Prepare the baking tray, lined with baking paper and piping bag in advance as the macarons should be piped very quickly.
4Pipe desired size with plenty of room in between. Once the tray is full, hold the tray in the air with one hand and with the other tap it hard from underneath until the macarons have spread a bit. Put the trays to one side until the macarons have formed a skin and are firm in texture.
5Put in to a preheated oven at 160°C for 6-8mins, turn the tray 180° and leave the oven door slightly ajar, reducing the heat to 120°C. Cook until the macaron is easily moved from the paper.
6Once cooked, remove the paper with macarons still on, from the hot tray and lay on a cool bench until cool. This ensures they do not dry out.
7When cool, fill with a ganache filling.
Vanilla ganache
1Place cream, butter, glucose and cut open and scraped out vanilla pod into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Pour the cream mixture onto the chocolate and mix, taking out the vanilla pod. Leave to set with glad wrap on surface overnight on bench. Fill macaron shells with ganache the next morning.
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Have you ever admired someone who can do a splendid needlework. I am one of them :) Today, I'd like to present you one of the hardest processes to be 'sweetish'...embroidery.
Basic outlined pattern
A simple outlined pattern on a household item is a perfect way to personalize an embroidered gift – whether its a gift to mom, a friend, or even to yourself! Personalized touches can be added simply and relatively quickly using different line stitches. Line stitches are used in most embroidery techniques, so whether you’re going for something simple, or you’re trying to make a cutwork or needlelace table cloth, chances are you are going to employ some line stitches. So here are the basic ones…Experiment with them! They aren’t just for lines – they can also be used for fillings. If you have any additional uses for any of these stitches, feel free to share! And if you have any questions or corrections, post a comment – I’m all ears!
Running stitch: This is perhaps the most basic “sewing” stitch, and it can be used well for decorative effects in embroidery. This is the first stitch I teach in my embroidery classes, and even though it seems really basic, it makes for a good exercise in judging stitch length and spacing. To look “nice,” running stitches need to be evenly spaced and of even length – though the space between the stitches does not always have to equal the length of the stitch! You can create different effects by using longer stitches, with smaller spaces between them. You can create a light fill with running stitch, by alternating the spacing in parallel lines, forming a kind of “brick” effect. The running stitch, when worked very small and very close together in fine thread on fine fabric, can be used for delicate vines and lines. It can also be “whipped” (explained below) to make a solid line with a rope-like effect. Direction:For right-handers, work from right to left or top to bottom. For left-handers, work from left to right, or top to bottom. Bring the needle to the front of the fabric at A, and pull the thread through. Now, for the rest of your stitches, you can work them more quickly if you “run” them on the top of the fabric, without taking your hand to the back. Go down at B, and, using your fingers on your non-dominant hand (the one that’s not holding the needle!) behind the fabric, encourage the needle to come up again at C. Pull the thread through. Work to the end of the line or curve in this manner, and try to keep your stitches straight and even! The more you practice, the easier it gets!
Whipped running stitch: The “whipped” part of this stitch is demonstrated in red. You can “whip” a stitch with a contrasting color, with the same color, or with a shade of the same color, all of which will give a different effect. The weight of the thread also determines the effect. If you are using one fine strand of floss or thread, your stitch will be very delicate. In this case, you should stitch a row of tiny, close running stitches. Direction: Bring the needle up at the point where you began your running stitches. Take your needle down through each running stitch, passing between the stitch and the fabric, without picking up any fabric. When you reach the end of the running stitch foundation, take the needle to the back of the fabric at the same point where you ended your running stitches. Secure the thread in the usual way (by running it under the backs of your stitches) and snip. And there you have it!
Back Stitch: This is another easy outline stitch which can be used to good effect on delicate or heavy lines. This stitch is commonly used in counted cross stitch. The back stitch can be further decorated by whipping it, just like the running stitch above. The key to good looking back stitches – just like running stitches – is even stitches. Direction:Left-handers: you’re going to work left to right.Right-handers: work right to left, bringing your thread up at A, determining the length of your stitch between A and the starting point of your line. Take your needle back to B, insert and encourage it up at C (using a finger of your other hand under your work). Pull the thread through. Continue working in a backwards-forewards motion until you have completed the line. At the end of the line, take the needle down at the end of the second to the last stitch, thus forming your final stitch. On the underside of your fabric, whip the needle and working thread in and out of the stitches formed to secure it.
Outline Stitch: This stitch is a lot like the stem stitch in technique, but the outcome looks slightly different. In stem stitch (below), the individual stitches remain quite distinct, while in outline stitch, the stitches twist together, forming a solid line without clear distinction in the stitches. They kind of “twist together” and make a smoother looking “rope.” I prefer the stem stitch (below) to the outline stitch, especially if I’m using it as a filling. You can use both of them as filling, by working rows close to each other, and you can achieve a nice shaded effect by switching to lighter shades as you go along. But for some reason, the stem stitch seems to work better for that than the outline stitch does. The outline stitch is great for nice, tight-looking, fine outlines. It takes curves well, so it’s great for curly-q’s. Direction:For left-handed stitchers, you will stitch in the opposite direction, and keep the thread below the needle. For right-handed stitchers: outline stitch is worked from left to right, by bringing the needle up into the fabric at the beginning of the line to be covered. Put the needle into the fabric at the point that determines the length of the stitch. Without pulling through, pointing the needle back towards the beginning of the line and keeping the thread ABOVE the needle, push the tip of your needle through the fabric about halfway down the length of the stitch. Pull through. Continue in this “back and forth” manner, going forward, but always pointing the needle back towards the beginning of your work, and, for subsequent stitches, bring the needle up where you finished the last stitch. User the fingers on your non-stitching hand to encourage the needle back into the fabric. This way, you can avoid taking your hand to the back of the fabric. Try to keep your stitches even.
Stem Stitch: Like the outline stitch, stem stitch can be used to outline delicate lines, curves, and curly-q’s. Unlike the outline stitch, the stem stitch produces a line of more defined invidual stitches. Like the running stitch, the stem stitch can be whipped. Stem stitch makes great stems (of course!) on leaves and flowers, as well as simple outlines on any design. Stem stitch can also be used as a thick filler, by working rows next to each other. You can add shading to your filling by changing the shade of the thread. Direction:For left-handers, work this stitch right to left, keeping the thread above the needle (opposite of the diagram). Right-handers: Bring the needle and the thread through the fabric at your starting point (A). Take your needle down at B (which will determine the length of the rest of your stitches). Encourage the needle back up about halfway back along the stitch line, and pull the thread through. You can work directly on your stitch line, and just nudge your thread over as you come up. As you take the second stitch, the emerging point of the needle (C) will be at the end of the previous stitch. You can reduce this distance, and only go back half the space (or even less), and elongate your stitches. You can also stitch on more of an angle (as shown in the diagram) to achieve a wider line.
Couching: another great way to achieve a neat line, as well as to fill an area. Couching is basically the stitching down of a thicker thread that is laid on the fabric, using usually a finer thread. It is an essential technique in most goldwork. But it doesn’t have to be used only for goldwork! I teach my 10 – 14 year olds couching by having them fill in an area between two parallel lines with #3 or #5 perle cotton – usually in a nice, bright color – which is couched down with a contrasting bright color in a brick pattern (that is, alternating the placement of the couching thread in each line). They love the effect! Couching is used in the technique “Or Nue” (a goldwork technique) in such a way that the placement of the couching stitches determines the shading of the figure being embroidered. I have some links to examples of Or Nue on thispage. Direction: Lay your thicker thread (the thread to be couched) on your design. In some cases, you can thread a larger needle with your thicker thread and bring it up through your fabric. In other cases, you take the couched thread ends to the back of the fabric later, or not at all. Thread your needle with a fine thread. Use a contrasting color if you want your stitches to be seen; use a similar color if you do not want your stitches to be seen. If you are couching down gold or other metalics, you will want to wax your thread first. Take small stitches over the laid thread, perpendicular to it, and evenly spaced. Catch the fabric in the back at each stitch. When you fill a pattern, you usually alternate the placement of your stitches, so that, even if the couching thread is a similar color to the laid thread, you still get a kind of pleasing pattern.
I'm sure this post is able to get your interests! I know every girl wants to be 'In Shape' and this post will lead you the way...I've found a post from http://www.diet-blog.com, my favorite diet blog,which I think one way can help you (Especially for ones who do cooking)
LOSE 26 POUNDS EATING AT HOME
Does this sound like you?
“I am so frustrated with my ability to lose weight. I exercise 5 days per week, and still can’t seem to lose weight. I make all the right choices when eating out, too.”
Think about how many times you eat out. As simple as it seems, eating half (or more) of your meals at restaurants can make it extremely difficult to lose weight even if you “make the right choice”.
We often lose track of how many meals we are eating out, and then seem mystified as to why we can’t see the pounds drop.
Cut Calories in Half
Restaurants sneak in extra oils, butters, and mystery sauces creating high calorie foods.
By cutting 2 tablespoons of butter or oil, you can save 200 to 300 calories. That equals half a pound of weight loss every week!
Serve Your Own Portions
At restaurants, you don’t have as much control over the portion that is on your plate. When at home, you can easily follow the half plate vegetable rule.
However, the restaurants will serve up double or triple what you need to eat for a meal, and likely, not enough vegetables. You can also use smaller plates at home.
Plan, Plan, Plan
Make sure to plan out your grocery shopping list and the meals that you will have for the week. When we fail to plan, it is easy to resort to take-out food.
The extra 10 minutes is worth it—for your health and wallet! You will be trimming your waistline and your budget.
The key to succeeding is to be committed. Stick to the rule of eating from home, and your health will improve.
Hereis one of my favorite healthy recipe for home cooking:
Blueberry-Raspberry Gazpacho with Mint Adapted from Bon Appétit www.skinnytaste.com Servings: 4 • Size: 1/4 sauce with 1/4 cup fro-yo • Old Points: 2 pts • Points+: 4 pts Calories: 139 • Fat: 0.3 g • Protein: 3 g • Carbs: 32 g • Fiber: 5.4 g • Sugar: 22.8 g Sodium: 37 mg
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups blueberries
1 1/2 cups raspberries
2 tbsp raw sugar or sweetener of your choice
1 tbsp fresh orange juice
1 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp lime juice
1 tsp lemon zest
fresh mint leaves for garnish
4 scoops (1/4 cup each) fat-free vanilla frozen yogurt
Directions:
Combine the berries with the sugar, orange, lemon and lime juice and the lemon zest in a medium heatproof bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap.
Place the covered bowl over a large saucepan of simmering water; cook on low 10 minutes. Set aside until it cools. Refrigerate until cold, about 4 hours.
Divide fruit and its liquid among 4 bowls; garnish with fresh mint and top each bowl with a 1/4 cup scoop of frozen yogurt.
